Top Fuel Cars – Two-Wheeled Cars Revisited

In 2008 I published an article on a two-wheeled car, running on diagonally opposite wheels. (see Pinewood Derby Times – Volume 7, Issue 14).

I raced a car built using this technique in an Outlaw race in April 2008. The car did well, but due to the center weighting scheme, it didn’t take first place.

Two-wheeled Outlaw Car

Later, a customer, Bob Wheeler, came into the shop with his version of a two wheeled car.  Modeled after a car that was entered at his pack’s race many years ago, it runs on the right-front, and left-rear wheels; the other wheels are off the ground. Unlike my car which is center-weighted, Bob’s car is rear weighted (balance point at 1-3/4 inch in front of the rear axle) by offsetting an underbody lead plate to the left.  It is possible that this design could be made faster by using tungsten plates and shifting them further back.  Nevertheless, the car is very fast; it has taken first in several races.

Top of Bob Wheeler’s Car

Bottom of Bob Wheeler’s Car

I was ready to let the idea of a two-wheeled car go into oblivion, until I ran across a car by Joe Tomelleri on the Derby Talk Forum.

Joe Tomelleri’s Car

Joe’s car runs on two single file wheels.  With rail-rider alignment, only the front wheel touches.  This car was intriguing to me, so I decided to build a variation of Joe’s design.

On my design, I discarded the other two wheels, and replaced them with outrigger bars, tipped with small beads.  The weight is tungsten (just over 4 ounces) and the wheels are light weight H-Tread wheels.  The alignment is set to rail ride. Admittedly the car could be made more elegant by hiding the weight and giving it a nice paint job, but I kind of liked the functional look.

Two-Wheeled Car – Right Side View

Two-Wheeled Car – Left Side View

On the track, the car ran very smoothly.  It turned out that the outriggers were not needed, because as soon as the car reached the braking section, the car flopped over onto its right side.  When raced against my other two wheeled car (first photo), this new car wins by a car length.

Flush with success, I decided to remove the outriggers, improve the looks of the car (a little), and improve the speed with the introduction of Super Stock Needle Axle Wheels (SSN) from DerbyWorx.

Updated Two-Wheeled Car

I plan to run the car in the Outlaw Division of this year’s race on April 15. I’m sure it will create quite a stir, and I’ll let you know the results in a newsletter in October.

If you implement a two-wheeled car, please send me a photo and a description, and I’ll be glad to include it in a future newsletter.

Editor’s Note:

In the race, the car ran very smoothly, easily beating all but two cars (which were equipped with needle axle outlaw wheels, one of which I built). The car also received the positive crowd response that I was hoping for.

But in the third heat, the front “spoiler” broke off in the stop section.  I didn’t notice the missing part until I was staging the car for the final race. Our rules state that the only broken car part that can be replaced is a wheel, so nothing could be done.  Since the spoiler was needed to trip the finish line, the car got a DNF (did not finish) for the final heat and ended up taking fourth place. I could have argued that the car did finish; the problem was that the sensor didn’t detect it.  But since I was the race leader, I didn’t think that was appropriate. Obviously, the spoiler needs to be mechanically reinforced, as opposed to just attached with glue.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 14
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(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Car Showcase – January 13, 2017

Some great looking models of real (or almost real) vehicles.

Mini Cooper – Leon Dixon

Our Mini Cooper club runs our own “pinewood-derby-type” race.  We have been using your MV Car Kits for four years now. Our event has expanded so much we almost don’t know what to do with it!  You can read a bit about it at: minisonthedragon.com/draggin_dragons.php

(There’s a typo on that page, this is actually our 4th time running the event).

Jeff Gordon Stock Car – Tim & Elisabeth Stephens

We had a great time working on this car. We like Jeff Gordon and when we saw your idea for making one, we jumped on it. Speed axles and wheels came from Maximum Velocity. I used your tips to dress it out in decals from a model kit I purchased online. Some automotive pin striping on the window decals you supplied really added detail to the finished project. Elisabeth won all her heat races, and when they put all age level winners together, including the adult winner, she beat them all. Whoo, hoo – great fun for all! Thanks for all your advice and products.

School Bus – Nathan & Brenden Paul

This is my son’s Pinewood Derby School Bus.  While it was not the fastest (finished 6th out of 24), it did take home the trophy for the “Best School Themed Car”.

Sideswipe – David Bodoh

In the movie Transformers 2 there is a Corvette Stingray named “Sideswipe”.  I challenged myself to turn it into a derby car (just the car, not the robot). It took 3 attempts, but ultimately it required cutting the main block into seven pieces to be shaped separately, and then reassembled (roof, hood scoop, four fenders and the body).  There’s even four exhaust pipes in the back.  We raced it in the family event at our pack’s pinewood derby, and it posted the second fastest run of the whole day. Speed and design – just like the real car.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 13
Subscribe to this Free Pinewood Derby E-newsletter
(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Times, Volume 16, Issue 8 – January 11, 2017

PINEWOOD DERBY TIMES
Volume 16, Issue 8
January 11, 2017

In this Edition

– Editor’s Notes
– Feature Article – Buying a New Track? Let’s Consider Some Factors
– Humor

– Product Showcase – T-Tool Weight Drilling Jig – $2.00 Off (Over 10%)
– Pinewood Derby Memory – Grandkids Reign
– Pinewood Derby Car Showcase
– Q&A


Editor’s Notes

MV Basic & Wedge Car Kits

If you are planning a race and are not required to use a specific kit type, our MV Basic or Wedge Car Kit are just what you need. These attractively priced kits are equipped with:

Quality Block – Unlike the blocks provided by some organizations, our blocks are soft, northwestern pine blocks, cut precisely to 7 inches long, 1-3/4 inches wide, and 1-1/4 inches tall. These dimensions, as well as the axle slots accurately duplicate the dimensions of standard pinewood derby blocks from BSA and PineCar.

Simple Axle Preparation – Don’t worry about filing off flaws, or losing hub caps. Our Speed Axles have no burrs or crimp marks, and install without hub caps. With or without polishing, they are ready to go. We supply five, so you have a spare.

Quality Wheels – Forget cheap, out of round wheels. Our MV wheels are top-quality wheels. You will not be disappointed with the quality of these wheels.

So, if your organization does not mandate a particular kit type, consider our MV Basic Car Kits or MV Wedge Car Kits.

Call for Photos
Help, we are virtually out of photos for the pinewood derby car showcase.  Please send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of car shown at:

Make sure the photo is not blurry. If your photos are blurry, try holding the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to   adequately show a feature. Don’t forget to include your name, the name of the car (if it has one), and a brief write up on any design features, inspiration for the design, and how the car performed at the race. Thanks.

Inventory Clearance Sale
We are clearing inventory on several items including:

– Formula One car kit
– Wheel Flares and Paint Stencils
– Raingutter Regatta Decals

We don’t have many left, so don’t delay. You can find these items Here.

Can We Help?

If we can help you in any way with your pinewood derby project, or if you have any feedback regarding this newsletter, please contact E-Mail Us.


Feature Article
Buying a New Track? Let’s Consider Some Factors
By Randy Davis

Back in 2003, I ran article written by Steve Monk(1) about purchasing a pinewood derby track.  That article provided a lot of good information at a time when aluminum tracks were relatively new. Now, thirteen years later, aluminum tracks are firmly established, and wood tracks are fading. So, I thought it was time to revisit the subject.
There are many factors involved in the purchase decision of a pinewood derby track. Obvious factors include:

– Budget,
– Number of lanes and expandability,
– Length, and
– Available electronics (timer, solenoid start gate, etc.).

But some other, maybe less obvious factors include:

– Compatibility of the car kit being used with the track,
– Life expectancy of the track, storage, and maintenance.
– Stability,
– Ease of setup,
– Functionality of the braking section.

Let’s take a look at each of these factors.

Budget
As a track purchaser, the organization budget is usually the most important factor. Certainly money is an important factor, but consider that the purchase of a track is not like buying a soda whereby you consume it then toss the can. Instead, it is more like purchasing an automobile that will be used for ten years, twenty years, or maybe longer.(2) Since you, or future race leaders will be using the track for many years to come, factors such as life expectancy, compatibility with other equipment, ease of setup, and ease of maintenance are important factors that should not be ignored. So, don’t be short-sighted; make sure to take the long-term picture into consideration.

Number of Lanes
Many people will tell you that the bigger the group, the more lanes you need. Their reasoning is that if more cars can race simultaneously, then the event will go more quickly. But this logic, as we shall see, is in error. In reality, a track of over four lanes is not really needed unless you are going for a “wow” factor. Let’s look at the numbers.

Today, most races are staged with computer software which assigns each car to race once in each lane. So, let’s say that you have 100 cars and each car is going to race one heat in each lane. For a four lane track you will need 100 heats. For a six lane track, you will need 100 heats. Now consider how long it takes to stage four cars, run the heat, and retrieve the four cars, versus the amount of time needed to stage six cars, run the heat, and retrieve the cars. The heat time for the six lane track will be slightly longer in order to deal with the extra cars. So, the six lane track will result in a longer event.

You might say, “On the six lane track, just have the cars run in four of the lanes.” Of course you could do that, and if the track was perfectly consistent from lane to lane you would have a fair event. But in reality no track is perfectly consistent from lane to lane. There is always some variance between lanes, and this variance will change from one year to another. So if, for example, lane five was a slower lane, any car that did not run in lane five would have an advantage.

Well enough on the numbers, let’s go back to the budget for a moment; a six lane track will cost essentially 50 percent more than a four lane track of the same length (even the timer will cost more). So a 50 percent increase of budget will provide some “wow” factor, but will do nothing to improve the length or fairness of the event.

Track Length
How long of a track should you get? Well, certainly the track needs to fit in the room, and again longer tracks do have a “wow” factor. But, in my opinion, the only reason for having a track longer than 32 to 35 feet is to accommodate a larger audience – the longer the track, the more track-side seating space is available. But there are downsides to longer tracks:

– Longer tracks are more expensive and take longer to setup.
– Longer tracks increase the event time. Although each race down a longer track is just a split second longer, the time to walk the cars back to the staging area is a larger factor, and cumulatively will increase the length of the event.
– More cars will not make it to the finish line, which is a real bummer for race participants.

I have heard some folks say that longer tracks are better because they reduce the number of ties (the longer track tends to spread out the cars). This is true, but with modern race management, the timers and
software automatically handle ties, eliminating the need to have run-offs. So ties are not really an issue anymore.

In conclusion, if you have a larger group, and the budget to afford a longer track, go ahead and get an extra track section or maybe 2. But just recognize the downside to doing so. Also consider that many of the tracks allow you to add a section at a later time. So you can start with a 32 to 35-foot track and then add a section when your group expands in membership.

Available Electronics
When you purchase a track, you will want to get a timer with race software, and possibly a solenoid starting gate. Most tracks are compatible with all of the major timers, and solenoid gates are available for most tracks. But before purchasing a track, select a timer as well and make sure it is compatible with the intended track. Similarly, if you want a solenoid gate, make sure one is available that will work with the intended track.

Car Kit Compatibility
In general, there are two types of tracks: center lane guide, and side guide. On center lane guide tracks, cars straddle a lane guide rail, while on side guide tracks cars run between two guide rails.


Figure 1 – Lane Guide Configurations

On the surface, this does not seem to be a big difference. But let’s consider pinewood derby kit wheels. Wheels are of two type: offset and symmetrical. Offset wheels are those wheels that have an outer sidewall and an inner edge. In order to work properly, the wheels are mounted such that the sidewall faces away from the car body while the inner edge is mounted towards the car body. Examples of offset wheels are:  BSA, MV, Awana, and PineCar.


Figure 2 – Offset Wheel (BSA)

Symmetrical wheels are molded such that the wheel can be mounted either way.  On these wheels there is no inside or outside. Examples of symmetrical wheels are: Royal Racer, RA Racer, and Royal Ranger/S&W.


Figure 3 – Symmetrical Wheel (RA Racer – Speed Version)

Now here’s the rub: offset wheels are designed to only contact a guide rail on the inner edge. Raised lettering, tread markings on the outside of the wheel make contact with a guide rail undesirable. Thus, offset wheels are designed for center lane guide tracks. On the other hand, symmetrical wheels can be used on either center lane guide or side guide tracks.

In summary, if your group uses offset wheels, you will want to get a center lane guide track. If your group uses symmetrical wheels, you can use either track type.

Life Expectancy, Storage, and Maintenance
If used with care and stored properly, tracks will last for many years. Generally, tracks should be stored flat on the ground in a climate-controlled area, and should be enclosed in a case. If tracks are stored upright, the lanes may develop a warp. Similarly, if a track is exposed to excessive heat, cold or humidity, warping can occur. This is especially true of wood tracks, but plastic tracks are also susceptible. Light exposure can also affect plastic and wood tracks.

Aluminum tracks are less susceptible to warping, but aluminum does oxidize. Over time, a white, slightly sticky powder will appear on aluminum tracks which must be scoured off. A plastic scrub pad and Simple Green will clean it off, but it does take some “elbow grease”.

Oxidation can be eliminated by anodizing. This is a process where the surface of the track is hardened via an electrochemical process. The resulting surface has a “satin” look and feel, and will not oxidize.


Figure 4 – Non-anodized (left) versus Anodized (right)
(Source:  microwizard.com)

STABILITY
Track stability refers to the rigidity of the elevated starting section, as well as the track section connections. The support structure of the elevated section should be rigid so that the track does not sway when the start gate is activated and when the cars race through the curve. Generally, wood and aluminum tracks have more stability, while plastic tracks, being lighter in weight, are more susceptible to swaying.

The track sections need to be rigidly attached to each other. During the race people will walk back and forth along the track, and when an errant foot kicks the track (it will happen), the track sections should stay firmly together, with no misalignment of the track sections.

EASE OF SETUP
The twenty year-old track our group uses is not easy to setup.  It requires each track section to be individually aligned, and an expert (me) is needed to put it together. Modern tracks should not have these problems.

A track should be easy to assemble and have positive alignment. The track assembly procedure should be straightforward and obvious. Since track setup will likely be performed by different people each year, a setup expert should not be needed. A simple assembly manual is fine, but it should not require detailed study.

Positive alignment means that track sections should have connection guides built in so that the assembly team does not have to worry about alignment.

Functionality of the Braking Section
The quality of the braking section is just as important as the rest of the track. A track that provides a great race, but results in breakage when the cars are stopped is not acceptable. The fastest cars are the cars that are the most susceptible to damage as they have the highest speeds. So the braking section needs to be able to safely stop the fastest cars with any damage.

The most effect stop systems have an elevated center lane whereby the cars skid to a stop on their “bellies”.  Preferably, the rolling section of the track drops away so that the car transitions smoothly into the braking section.  Some braking sections ramp up, which can cause derailment. Other braking section have foam stops which can cause damage on impact or on the rebound.


Figure 5 – Stop Section
(Source:  besttrack.com)

Commercially Available Tracks

Company         Composition    Center/Side Guide
BestTrack       Aluminum       Center
MicroWizard  Aluminum       Center
Derby Magic   Plastic              Center
Super Timer   Plastic              Side
S&W Crafts     Wood                Side

CONCLUSION
Purchasing a track is a major decision, with many factors to consider. I hope that you find this article helpful in working through the various factors so that you can find the right track for your organization.

(1) Steve Monk is the owner of Best Track.
(2) The track we use is over twenty years old.


Humor
A commercial property owner has three shops in a row, all for rent. The first prospective lessee shows up, and says he wants to rent the shop on the left.

The owner says, “Fine, what kind of shop do you have?” The guy says, “A men’s wear shop.” The owner tells him he gets free signage and asks what he wants on the sign. “Men’s Wear,” says the man.

A second guy comes along and wants to rent the right hand shop. When asked he says he wants “Men’s Wear” on his sign. The owner tells him that the left hand shop will be the same. “No problem,” says the man.

Finally a third man comes along to rent the middle shop. The owner is most concerned because this guy also has a men’s wear shop. Rather wearily the owner asks him what he wants on his sign. The guy replies: “Entrance.”


Product Showcase
T-Tool Weight Drilling Jig – $2.00 Off (Over 10%)

For top speed, weight needs to be accurately placed. Now anyone can create accurate weight holes for tungsten cylinders, lead wire, or tundra rod with only a hand drill.

The T-Tool is a precision-machined, aluminum jig that will improve the speed of your pinewood derby car through accurate weight placement. The T-Tool:

– Ensures accurate weight placement by allowing you to drill precise weight holes into the side, back, or bottom of a pinewood derby block.

– Can drill straight holes, or holes at a slightly downward angle for wedge-shaped cars.

– The guide holes in the T-Tool are sized for a 25/64 inch drill bit (perfect for tungsten and lead). The drill bit is not included; it is sold separately Here (part 5001).

Through January 24, 2017, you can get a T-Tool Weight Drilling Jig for $2.00 off. To take advantage of this limited time offer, add part 5144 to your shopping cart and use coupon code JAN11NL during checkout.


Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

CO2 Outlaw – Jordan Runsvold

Just wanted to share my outlaw derby car from this year. With CO2 power, its best run was 0.9305 seconds on our 35 foot BestTrack. The valve was a modified bike tire inflator.

Watch Video Here

In the video you will see a zip-tie flying off. It was securing the firing mechanism until the car was on the track. Typically I would remove it before starting the race, but that one wedged its way in there and I didn’t want to risk a premature firing when removing it.

That’s one of the things I hope to eliminate in next year’s car – the cylinder and valve assembly will have a “safety” to allow easier handling before the race.

Bentley B – Brian Bradford

From Bentley: That is the “Bentley B” One day I was playing Mario Kart and I thought the design of the Mercedes-Benz W25 Silver Arrow would be an awesome pinewood body design. Also, I thought it would be cool to put Bentley on there – which is my name – instead of Mercedes signs.

Note from Dad: In our building process, we coincidentally discovered that most of the long, low, un-fendered 1930’s Grand Prix cars match up very well with Pinewood Derby proportions and stock wheelbase. If you’re looking to make your car proportionally look like an actual car, these may be a good place to start.

Share Your Car With Our Readers

Do you have a car you would like to “show off” to our readers? If so, send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of this car:

For better focus, keep the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to adequately show a feature. Also, only one car per subscriber per year please. Thanks.


Pinewood Derby Memory
Grandkids Reign

I have three granddaughters: one is in Kindergarten, the second is in pre-school, and the third is only three.  Recently, all three got to compete in an Awana Grand Prix.

The day of the race, my son came over with the three girls’ cars to put the wheels on. He anticipated only about a 20-minute job, so he brought the girls and a video for them to watch. His wife wasn’t feeling well and stayed home for a nap.

Three hours later, she woke up and called wondering where they were. We were still working on the cars, but time was running out so we weren’t able to polish the wheels or the insides of the hubs.  We aligned the cars and took them to the sign-in.

That night, the oldest girl took first in speed, and the middle one got third. The youngest was headed for either second or third when, on the last race, her car jumped the track. I have no idea why – it was running well.

We came that close to having a family lock on speed at this race!

Les Aldrich
Bonner Springs, Kansas

Perspective

A week ago my son and I had just finished weighing in his car for his Pack’s race.  We were in the car on the way home.  Patrick, who is eight, thanked me for helping him with his car and then said, “I am sure glad you are my dad.”  Pretty much makes nothing else matter.

PJ Harrigan
Mesa, Arizona

Do you Remember?

If you have a pinewood derby story that is funny, unusual, sad, heart-warming, etc., please send it to me in an e-mail. Don’t worry about literary polish. We will edit as needed before publishing. Also, please read our submission policy.

If your story is used, you will receive a $10 coupon in May of 2017.


Q&A

Q: What changes need to be made to a BSA legal car for faster times on different length tracks? We run on metal tracks from 35 to 49 feet long. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

A: Most speed tips are the same.  However, the following would make a difference.

– Weight-reduced wheels – these make a big impact on shorter tracks. However, the longer the track the less the advantage. At some point, heavier wheels would be faster. Sorry, I don’t know at what point that is.

– COG – On short tracks an aggressive COG is beneficial. But again, the longer the track a less aggressive COG would be best.

– Rail-riding – If you rail ride, on longer tracks as the cars slow down the dominant wheel may come off the rail.  So, you would need a
harder steer on a longer track.

Q: How do you align for rail riding?

A: There are several resources for this:

Quick instructions Here

Q&A Here

Newsletter Article Here

Video Instructions Here

Note that the narrator misstated which way the car should drift. The car should drift towards the raised wheel, such that the raised wheel moves away from the center guide rail.

Want Answers?

Do you have a pinewood derby-related question? If so, e-mail us your question.

We answer all questions by e-mail, but not every question will appear in the Q&A section of the newsletter.


Back Issues

Are you a new subscriber, or have you missed some of the previous newsletters? Don’t miss out; all of the issues for Volume 5 through Volume 16 are posted on our web site Here.

Issues from Volumes 1 to 4 are available in four formatted documents, ready for immediate download. To find out more, Click Here.


Newsletter Contributions

We welcome your contributions. If you would like to contribute an article, a web site review, a speed tip, or a pinewood derby memory, please e-mail us.

Please read our submission policy.


Subscription Information

The Pinewood Derby Times is a free e-newsletter focused on pinewood derby racing. It is published biweekly from October through March.

If you haven’t already done so, please forward this issue to your pinewood derby friends. But please don’t subscribe your friends. Let them decide for themselves. Thanks.

If this newsletter was forwarded to you, why not subscribe to receive this newsletter. There is no cost, and your e-mail address is safe, as we never sell or share our distribution list.

To subscribe, send a blank e-mail to
mailto:pinewood-derby-times-on@mail-list.com

You will receive a confirmation e-mail. Reply to the confirmation e-mail and you will start receiving the Pinewood Derby Times with the next issue.


Randy Davis, Editor, Pinewood Derby Times
E-Mail: mailto:info@maximum-velocity.com

(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved. Please do not reprint or place this newsletter on your web site without explicit permission. However, if you like this newsletter we grant permission, and encourage you to e-mail it to a friend.

Maximum Velocity disclaims any personal loss or liability caused by utilization of any information presented in this newsletter.

The Pinewood Derby Times is not specific to, and is not affiliated with the Boy Scouts of America, YMCA, Awana, or any other organization.

(R)Maximum Velocity is a registered trademark of Maximum Velocity, Inc.

(R)Pinewood Derby and Regatta are registered trademarks of Boys Scouts of America.

(R)Awana is a trademark of Awana Clubs International.

All other names are trademarks of their respective owners.

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Pinewood Derby Car Showcase – January 6, 2017

Some Big Rigs from Andy and Noah Holzer.

Knight Rider


This was my last year of Cub Scouts so I decided to build one of my favorite cars for my last Pinewood Derby. KITT was from an old television show called Knight Rider, the car is an ’82 Firebird, Trans Am.

My dad found a website that sells a scanner (the light in the front of the car). It was for a larger scale car but we made it work with my pinewood derby car. I had to learn to solder to get all of the small wires connected to the circuit board. KITT came in second place in the Webelo II race, it also got an award for Coolest Looking Car.

My dad worked to get a Big Rig race this year so we built two Big Rigs for the race. We made mine look like the FLAG Mobile Unit 01, the semi that fixed KITT on the television show.

The King


After building “The King” for Maximum Velocity’s Pinewood Derby Times, Volume 9, Issue 9,  I knew what my first Big Rig would be, the King Hauler. I had never built a Big Rig, but the first time I saw one I thought they were very cool. So when BSA released their version for the 100th Anniversary of Scouting I needed to get one to build.

The only trouble with the BSA kit is that one of the cardboard boxes that the kit comes in is also used for the trailer box; that would just not do. I built a box that could actually house The King. It turns out that all of the five entries in this year’s Big Rig Race had built their own trailers out of wood.

Building a Big Rig is not much different than building a car (a lot more wheels and axles to prepare), but the weight seems to sneak up quicker (our max weight is 25 ounces). In any case, I would highly encourage your group to have a Big Rig race.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 12
Subscribe to this Free Pinewood Derby E-newsletter
(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Times, Volume 16, Issue 7 – December 28, 2016

PINEWOOD DERBY TIMES
Volume 16, Issue 7
December 28, 2016

In this Edition

– Editor’s Notes
– Humor
– Product Showcase – Side Weight System – 15% Off
– Pinewood Derby Memory – Thumbs Up!
– Pinewood Derby Car Showcase
– Q&A


Editor’s Notes

Seasons Greetings
All of us at Maximum Velocity wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and a great New Year.  May you have a blessed year.

No Feature Article
I decided to a take a Christmas break and not have an article in this edition. But I’ll have a new article in the next issue on January 11.

MV Basic & Wedge Car Kits
If you are planning a race and are not required to use a specific kit type, our MV Basic or Wedge Car Kit are just what you need. These attractively priced kits are equipped with:

Quality Block – Unlike the blocks provided by some organizations, our blocks are soft, northwestern pine blocks, cut precisely to 7 inches long, 1-3/4 inches wide, and 1-1/4 inches tall. These dimensions, as well as the axle slots accurately duplicate the dimensions of standard pinewood derby blocks from BSA and PineCar.

Simple Axle Preparation – Don’t worry about filing off flaws, or losing hub caps. Our Speed Axles have no burrs or crimp marks, and install without hub caps. With or without polishing, they are ready to go. We supply five, so you have a spare.

Quality Wheels – Forget cheap, out of round wheels. Our MV wheels are top-quality wheels. You will not be disappointed with the quality of these wheels.

So, if your organization does not mandate a particular kit type,
consider our MV Basic Car Kits or MV Wedge Car Kits.

Call for Photos
Help, we are virtually out of photos for the pinewood derby car showcase.  Please send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of car shown at:

Make sure the photo is not blurry. If your photos are blurry, try holding the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to   adequately show a feature. Don’t forget to include your name, the name of the car (if it has one), and a brief write up on any design features, inspiration for the design, and how the car performed at the race. Thanks.

Inventory Clearance Sale
We are clearing inventory on several items including:

– Formula One car kit
– Wheel Flares and Paint Stencils
– Raingutter Regatta Decals

We don’t have many left, so don’t delay. You can find these items Here.

Can We Help?

If we can help you in any way with your pinewood derby project, or if you have any feedback regarding this newsletter, please contact E-Mail Us.


Humor
Definitions?

Arbitrator ar’-bi-tray-ter: A cook that leaves Arby’s to work at McDonald’s.

Avoidable uh-voy’-duh-buhl: What a bullfighter tries to do.

Baloney buh-lo’-nee: Where some hemlines fall.

Bernadette burn’-a-det: The act of torching a mortgage.

Burglarize bur’-gler-ize: What a crook sees with.

Control kon-trol’: A short, ugly inmate.

Counterfeiters kown-ter-fit-ers: Workers who put together kitchen cabinets.

Eclipse i-klips’: what an English barber does for a living.

Eyedropper i’-drop-ur: a clumsy ophthalmologist.

Heroes hee’-rhos: what a guy in a boat does.

Left Bank left’ bangk’: what the robber did when his bag was full of loot.

Misty mis’-tee: How golfers create divots.

Paradox par’-u-doks: two physicians.

Parasites par’-uh-sites: what you see from the top of the Eiffel Tower.

Pharmacist farm’-uh-sist: a helper on the farm.

Polarize po’-lur-ize: what penguins in Antarctica see.

Primate pri’-mate: removing your spouse from in front of the TV.

Relief ree-leef’: what trees do in the spring.

Rubberneck rub’-er-nek: what you do to relax your wife.

Selfish sel’-fish: what the owner of a seafood store does.

Subdued sub-dood’: a guy, that works on one of those submarines.

Sudafed sood’-a-fed: bringing litigation against a government official


Product Showcase
Side Weight System – 15% Off

The Tungsten Side Weight System allows you to place weight on the side of the car, covered by the rear wheels. When additional weight is placed behind the rear axle, a very aggressive COG can be achieved.

The weights fit nicely into BSA or MV wheels(1) without any contact with the wheel. The weights have a view slot so writing on the inside of the wheel can be seen.

The Tungsten Side Weight System includes two side weights, mounting screws, a mounting tool, and a BSA axle for marking drill locations. To use the system you will need a drill, a 5/64 inch drill bit (or a 1/16 inch drill bit if you have axle holes), and epoxy adhesive.

Through January 10, 2017, you can get a Side Weight System for 15% off. To take advantage of this limited time offer, add part 5070 to your shopping cart and use coupon code SIDEWEIGHT during checkout.


Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

Today’s cars are from Jeff Bartel.

Formula 1 McLaren Mp4-24

When I saw the Formula 1 McLaren MP4-24, I was smitten; I just had to give it a try. The car took the design and speed awards for the Friends and Family division, and was my first adult car entry.

Back to the Future DeLorean



After having made the McLaren, I wanted to work on an iconic car and decided on the DeLorean from “Back to the Future”. This one had doors that opened and a somewhat complete interior (including a flux capacitor). It also won the Friends and Family design award (even if it wasn’t especially fast). I have to confess that I got a little obsessed with this car and spent way too much time on it.

Ghostbusters’ Cadillac Ambulance

For my final adult car, I wanted to create another iconic car, so I went with the Ghostbusters’ Cadillac ambulance. I learned my lesson from the DeLorean and worked only on the exterior. This also took the design award for the Friends and Family division.

Share Your Car With Our Readers

Do you have a car you would like to “show off” to our readers? If so, send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of this car:

For better focus, keep the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to adequately show a feature. Also, only one car per subscriber per year please. Thanks.


Pinewood Derby Memory
Thumbs Up!

My son wanted to sign up for scouts.  I thought, “What a great idea!” I thought back to my childhood days in scouts and thought this would surely be great. I instantly started telling – and apparently boring – my son about all of the great times that I had! Of all of the activities that I remembered the most, unfortunately the Pinewood Derby wasn’t one of them.

I’ll never forget the look on my son’s face that day he came home with his derby box in his outstretched hand,  and announced to me as he was handing over the box; “Here you go dad! Make me a great car!” In a blink of the eye, I instantly became my father! And in an instant – after the panic subsided – it all came back to me about my Derby days. The handing over of the box to my dad, the return of the box from my dad, and then, for the next few weeks, the building of “the car” together. Well, before my son could run off for the TV, I was able to apprehend him and hand back the box. Of course for the whole “we’ll do this together” thing, but also for the simple fact that if this car failed, I wasn’t going down alone!

This Pinewood Derby kit looked simple enough. So the box sat for what seemed like the longest time. Then as Derby day approached, I thought, “I’d better take a look at this thing! How hard could it be to attach four nails to a block of wood that resembled a car and paint the darn thing!” I was pretty handy with wood. Gosh I have a ton of wood working tools! I had made things in the past. This was no problem. I’m a dad!! Dad’s know these things. The only real guideline that I understood was the fact that it needed to “look like a flag.” A little red, white and blue paint would take care of that.

So we began. I thought I should cut the block first. No problem. Pulled out the old table saw (I know what you’re thinking) and cut away. This experience was similar to ice carving with a chain saw, something I was totally unfamiliar with!  Holy Cow!!

“All right,” I thought. “Maybe a scroll saw would be better.” Carve a little decorative look to the whole thing. Nope!

Okay, we took our first trip to the scout shop to buy another block. My son was a little puzzled but I kept giving him the “thumbs up” sign and assured him we were “Just practicing.” What a trooper. He just smiled and jumped in the car.

Our next attempt at cutting went a little smoother. My son pointed to the band saw and said, “We haven’t used this one yet.” The car looked great! Well, to him anyway. Bless his heart, Daddy could do no wrong.

I overheard a parent at one of our meetings discussing their car and remembered hearing something about making your own axle slots. Well this wasn’t a problem since I seemed to have accidentally removed the original ones. This was going good! Pulled out the drill; instant axle holes. Put that little nail through the wheel, glue it in the hole and ‘Bam’ we’ve got a race car! Let’s paint. Whoa! OK…. pull out the wheels.

“Just making sure they fit son.”

Thumbs up. Dad’s still great!

“I’ve got my paints dad!,” he said.

“Naw, let’s use spray paint! We’ll get a much better looking paint job.”

I don’t think my son had used a paint can before. But being the “eager” scout, he grabbed the can, pointed it backwards and began spraying his arm! Just another lesson in painting. What a neat father/son project! Two thumbs up!

Well, we finally got the paint on the car. Red on the bottom, blue on the top and some really cool looking star stickers all over. It was coming together.  We even painted the wheels white (A real speed secret!?). We let it dry overnight.

“It’s not real shiny dad. Let’s spray some shiny stuff on it!”

Oh boy – instant problem! This time my son and I learned a very important thing about painting: Compatibility!

Who would have ever thought that all paints and clear coats were NOT created equal. Within moments of painting our car began to “crinkle”. All at once flash backs of chemistry class, memories of my professor discussing things we should never mix together came rushing back to me!

With no time to react, I started wiping off the  car in an attempt to save something! A few re-coats of red, white, and blue and we were back. Throw in a little graphite, a little driver to sit behind the wheel, and we were real car builders. We did it!

Well, this journey my son and I were taking was not turning out anything like I thought. We did have a car though. Not a bad looking car either. And all four wheels were in place!

Race day came. How did we do? As my son’s car came down the track my fingers were turning blue from being crossed so tight. It made it! Every boy left that day with a ribbon. My son got to run six races that day and walked away with a fifth place ribbon. Overall in the whole pack of a one hundred plus boys? No idea – but we left with the BIGGEST grin on our faces, a car, and a ribbon.

Jon Edgar
Ballwin, MO

 

Do you Remember?

If you have a pinewood derby story that is funny, unusual, sad, heart-warming, etc., please send it to me in an e-mail. Don’t worry about literary polish. We will edit as needed before publishing. Also, please read our submission policy.

If your story is used, you will receive a $10 coupon in May of 2017.


Q&A

Q: What is your opinion of making a  graphite-paste with alcohol?  From what I’ve seen on YouTube nobody can perfectly center the new bore ID and they blame the wobble on an “unbalanced” wheel.

A: When you mix alcohol and graphite you change the lubricating property such that it doesn’t work as well as dry graphite; and you end up with an uneven coating on the bore as you indicated.

Q: When vendors on YouTube try to convince me that their “super-duper” extra ordinary 325 mesh, 44 micron graphite is best because it darkens a section of wood better than their competitors, is there something that I’m not understanding other than that these guys are akin to used car salesmen?

A: I don’t think that color is a good indication of lubricating ability. The  main thing you want is purity. Graphite is a refined product, and can range from 75% pure to 99% pure. The impurities are silica, and other trace  elements and compounds. The purer the graphite, the better it lubes. The second thing to look for is mesh size. I think you want a reasonable mesh  size (like 200) – a smaller mesh (325) doesn’t seem to lube as well. Our  Max-V-Lube is 200 mesh, 99% pure, and our Tube-O-Lube is 325 mesh.

Some people use a finer mesh graphite (Tube-O-Lube) to  lay down a few coatings in the bore, and then the larger mesh (Max-V-Lube) for the final lubing.

Want Answers?

Do you have a pinewood derby-related question? If so, e-mail us your question.

We answer all questions by e-mail, but not every question will appear in the Q&A section of the newsletter.


Back Issues

Are you a new subscriber, or have you missed some of the previous newsletters? Don’t miss out; all of the issues for Volume 5 through Volume 16 are posted on our web site Here.

Issues from Volumes 1 to 4 are available in four formatted documents, ready for immediate download. To find out more, Click Here.


Newsletter Contributions

We welcome your contributions. If you would like to contribute an article, a web site review, a speed tip, or a pinewood derby memory, please e-mail us.

Please read our submission policy.


Subscription Information

The Pinewood Derby Times is a free e-newsletter focused on pinewood derby racing. It is published biweekly from October through March.

If you haven’t already done so, please forward this issue to your pinewood derby friends. But please don’t subscribe your friends. Let them decide for themselves. Thanks.

If this newsletter was forwarded to you, why not subscribe to receive this newsletter. There is no cost, and your e-mail address is safe, as we never sell or share our distribution list.

To subscribe, send a blank e-mail to
mailto:pinewood-derby-times-on@mail-list.com

You will receive a confirmation e-mail. Reply to the confirmation e-mail and you will start receiving the Pinewood Derby Times with the next issue.


Randy Davis, Editor, Pinewood Derby Times
E-Mail: mailto:info@maximum-velocity.com

(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved. Please do not reprint or place this newsletter on your web site without explicit permission. However, if you like this newsletter we grant permission, and encourage you to e-mail it to a friend.

Maximum Velocity disclaims any personal loss or liability caused by utilization of any information presented in this newsletter.

The Pinewood Derby Times is not specific to, and is not affiliated with the Boy Scouts of America, YMCA, Awana, or any other organization.

(R)Maximum Velocity is a registered trademark of Maximum Velocity, Inc.

(R)Pinewood Derby and Regatta are registered trademarks of Boys Scouts of America.

(R)Awana is a trademark of Awana Clubs International.

All other names are trademarks of their respective owners.

Mailing list services are provided by:
www.mail-list.com

Pinewood Derby Car Showcase – December 23, 2016

Some cars using our Tungsten Canopy.

Tungsten On Wood – Glen Stowers

I came into your store to buy a tungsten canopy and some tungsten putty in late May.  As an adult, I was preparing for my first pinewood derby race in 30 years.  I had looked forward to this for over a decade … running designs around in my mind and making sketches of what I thought would work best. I entered a stock derby competition with a weight limit of 5.5 oz with a car I specifically designed for use with your tungsten weight products. The rest of the car was built from a stock BSA pinewood derby kit, from which I was allowed to modify the wheels.  Not only did I win the speed competition, I also won the “Best Paint” category with my stained wood finish.  I call it “Tungsten On Wood!” or “WOW!”

Not only did I beat every derby car in the stock category, I took my car over to the pro stock track and had an informal race with the fastest cars of the night (all gravity driven). The winning pro stock car was owned by a man who said his car had never been beaten in a single heat in years of racing.  We raced twice… I beat him twice!

Purple Haze – David Keith

I helped a friend’s son (Christian) design and build this car that bested 200 cars last Friday and Saturday. He also won his individual pack on Thursday. He was so excited! Thanks for all you do. Our cars would be nothing if it wasn’t for your expertise and help.

Blue Racer – Terry Duke

While buying supplies through Maximum Velocity for our second year of building Pinewood Derby cars, my son and I ran across the new “Vaccinator” kit. We both thought it looked pretty cool, and from what we learned of speed tips last year, we also thought it looked fast, so we chose to use that as a model for our design this year.

Since we’ve only been building PWD cars for two years, we don’t have the tools or experience to completely mimic the Vaccinator, but we chose to follow the principals of making it thin, carving the sides around the front wheels, and using Tungsten for our first time.

The only weight on the vehicle is the Tungsten Canopy. After using lead last year, the switch to tungsten was immediately obvious and significant design improvement. We had a lot of fun building our cars, and Maximum Velocity has been a  huge help providing our tools, designs, and weights to improve our competitive abilities and improve our father/son experience.

Blue Light Special – Ron

Here is our winning car: stock axle spacing, stock axles – polished of course – stock BSA wheels, a Tungsten Canopy mounted sideways to maximize the center of mass at approximately 9/10 of an inch in front of the rear axle. The car won 12 out of 12 races so we are off to districts.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 11
Subscribe to this Free Pinewood Derby E-newsletter
(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Speed Tip – December 16, 2016

Adding Brakes to Your Car
By Peter Holzemer

You can’t win no matter how fast your car is if it gets damaged at the stop section of the track. Our district track is a forty foot wood track with a three foot raised stop section terminated by a foam rubber stop bar across the end of the track. Unfortunately, the fastest cars slide through the stop section hitting the foam stop bar relatively hard. These fast cars either flip over the bar onto the hard floor, or hit the foam so hard that they bounce backwards through the stop section onto the track.  Sometimes, the bounced cars collide with other slower moving cars, causing damage to all involved.

In our second year of racing, my son’s car was the fastest in the first heat.  His car slid through the stop section, hit the stop bar, and flipped onto the floor, bending a rear axle.  Not realizing  that the axle was bent we kept on racing and winning, only to have the car slow down in the finals.  My son was fortunate enough to place third overall, but the other top cars were not so fortunate.  Those cars also received damage from the foam stop bar, but ended up losing their top spots.  After that experience, we decided a change was needed – brakes for the car.

The brake system is very simple, just two small strips of 80 grit black drywall sandpaper glued to the bottom of the car in front of and behind the rear axle.  This sandpaper causes the car to slow down quickly when it reaches the raised stop section. The deceleration is enough to keep the cars from bouncing on the stop bar.  Now, we add brakes to all our pack cars going to the district race. At this past year’s event, none of our pack cars had a crash.

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 11
Subscribe to this Free Pinewood Derby E-newsletter
(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Times, Volume 16, Issue 6 – December 14, 2016

PINEWOOD DERBY TIMES
Volume 16, Issue 6
December 14, 2016

In this Edition

– Editor’s Notes
– Feature Article – How to Put an Automobile Quality Finish on Your
Pinewood Derby Car

– Humor
– Product Showcase – Paint Stand – 10% Off
– Pinewood Derby Memory – A Sad Story?
– Pinewood Derby Car Showcase
– Q&A


Editor’s Notes

New Products
Maximum Velocity is introducing two new products just in time for the prime racing season:

15030smallSpecial Tungsten Cylinders – We made a special buy of these cylinders and are offering them to you at a much lower price than our regular cylinders. Each cylinder measures 0.45 inch in diameter and 0.36 inch in length, and weighs 0.56 ounce (7 cylinders equals 3.9 ounces). A cylinder will fit in a 15/32 or 1/2 inch hole. You can find these cylinders Here.

5468smallPre-Cut Bulk MV Car Kits – We made a special run of pre-shaped bulk car kits. The kits are shaped and sanded, and ready for final sanding and painting. Each bulk pack contains three each of four shaped car bodies, wheels, axles, instructions and baggies. You can find them Here.

MV Basic & Wedge Car Kits
If you are planning a race and are not required to use a specific kit type, our MV Basic or Wedge Car Kit are just what you need. These attractively priced kits are equipped with:

Quality Block – Unlike the blocks provided by some organizations, our blocks are soft, northwestern pine blocks, cut precisely to 7 inches long, 1-3/4 inches wide, and 1-1/4 inches tall. These dimensions, as well as the axle slots accurately duplicate the dimensions of standard pinewood derby blocks from BSA and PineCar.

Simple Axle Preparation – Don’t worry about filing off flaws, or losing hub caps. Our Speed Axles have no burrs or crimp marks, and install without hub caps. With or without polishing, they are ready to go. We supply five, so you have a spare.

Quality Wheels – Forget cheap, out of round wheels. Our MV wheels are top-quality wheels. You will not be disappointed with the quality of these wheels.

So, if your organization does not mandate a particular kit type,
consider our MV Basic Car Kits or MV Wedge Car Kits.

Call for Photos
Help, we are virtually out of photos for the pinewood derby car showcase.  Please send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of car shown at:

Make sure the photo is not blurry. If your photos are blurry, try holding the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to   adequately show a feature. Don’t forget to include your name, the name of the car (if it has one), and a brief write up on any design features, inspiration for the design, and how the car performed at the race. Thanks.

Inventory Clearance Sale
We are clearing inventory on several items including:

– Discount slotted blocks
– Formula One car kit
– Wheel Flares and Paint Stencils
– Raingutter Regatta Decals

We don’t have many left, so don’t delay. You can find these items Here.

Can We Help?

If we can help you in any way with your pinewood derby project, or if you have any feedback regarding this newsletter, please contact E-Mail Us.


Feature Article
How to Put an Automobile Quality Finish on Your Pinewood Derby Car
By Randy Davis

I am going to state right up front that I am not an auto painter nor am I particularly artistic. However, after many, many years of painting  innumerable pinewood derby cars, I finally came up with a way to get a nice paint job without the need to purchase expensive painting equipment. Clearly, if you want a real auto paint job, you will have to go to a body shop and get them to paint the car for you. But if you want to do it yourself, the process below will result in a nice paint job, and all of the supplies can be found at your local Auto Parts store (AutoZone, O’Reilly, et al), except for the wood sandpaper which is available from Maximum Velocity(1), or from any hardware or home improvement store.

Supplies
You will need the following supplies:

Sandpaper
60, 120, and 220 grit
600 or 800 grit wet/dry paper

Filler
Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty


Figure 1 – Bond Spot Filler
(Source:  bondo.com)

Paint
Rust-Oleum Filler & Sandable Primer
Dupli-Color Perfect Match Premium Automotive Paint
Dupli-Color Perfect Match Protective Clear Coat Finish


Figure 2 – Primer, Paint, and Clear
(Source:  rustoleum.com, duplicolor.com)

Car Holder
You will need a method to hold the car in place while painting and drying. I recommend our Paint Stand.(2) It securely holds the car while simultaneously keeping paint out of the axle holes/slots. The blue part of the stand is picked up for painting, then placed back on the base for drying.



Figure 3 – Paint Stand

Sanding
First, sand the car with the 60 grit paper, removing any saw marks and creating all desired contours. Next, sand with the 120 grit paper, removing all scratches left by the 60 grit paper. Then repeat with the 220 grit paper. Remove all dust with a soft rag.


Figure 4 – Sanded

Filling
Now we will use the Bondo to fill in all the fine scratches and any flaws. Bondo is a car body filler that dries reasonably fast and can be easily sanded. Bondo does have a strong chemical order, so make sure to apply Bondo in a ventilated area. I recommend covering the entire car (except the bottom) with a thin layer of Bondo. This will ensure that all scratches are filled.


Figure 5 – Bondo Applied

Sanding Bondo
Now use the 600/800 grit paper to sand the Bondo. The goal is not to remove all of the Bondo, but to sand until the body is smooth. The result may have more or less Bondo than in Figure 6.


Figure 6 – Bondo Sanded

Priming
The next step is to apply several coats of the Rustoleum primer. Generally, three coats will be sufficient. Coats can be applied every ten minutes if the temperature is 70 to 90 degrees.

As with any spray paint, shake the can well (don’t skimp on this), then apply several thin coats as opposed to fewer thick coats – this reduces the chance of “runs”. Use a sweeping motion to get an even coat, and to make sure you do not put on too much paint in one spot.


Figure 7 – Primer

Wet Sanding
After the final primer coat, allow two hours of dry time, then the primer can be wet sanded. This process gives you the smoothest finish, and much more life out of the sandpaper.

Run water on a piece of 600/800 grit paper, then sand the car in circular motions. Rinse the paper frequently. After the car is sanded, use a damp cloth to wipe off any paint residue, then dry the car with a soft rag. Allow the car to dry for several hours to ensure that all the water is evaporated.

Painting
Finally, the color can be applied. Typically, two coats of color are sufficient. Coats can be applied every ten minutes. Make sure to shake the can for a full minute after the ball starts rattling, and shake in between coats. Place the car in a dust free area while drying. There is nothing  more frustrating than a great paint job with a speck of dust in it!


Figure 8 – Paint

Clear Coat
After thirty minutes, apply one or two coats of clear, separated by ten minutes. These early clear coats will protect the paint while performing the next step.

Decals, Pin-striping, Etc.
Next apply any decorative items, such as decals, pin-striping, etc. In Figure 9 below, I used a Maximum Velocity paint stencil (designed specifically for this car). I cut the stencil short so that the “backbone” stopped at the “head” of the car. The eyes were cut out from some gold sticker material from a craft store.

Final Clear Coats
Lastly apply several clear-coats, ten minutes apart. The more clear coats you apply, the deeper the shine.


Figure 9 – Final Result

Final Thoughts
Getting a great paint job does take some time, but if you have the right materials and put in the effort, you can achieve a beautiful paint job for your pinewood derby car.

(1) A sandpaper assortment can be found Here. Find grit wet/dry paper can be found Here.

(2) A paint stand can be found Here.


Humor
Wisdom From Kids

HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHO TO MARRY?
You got to find somebody who likes the same stuff. Like, if you like sports, she should like it that you like sports, and she should keep the chips and dip coming.
— Alan, age 10

No person really decides before they grow up who they’re going to marry. God decides it all way before, and you get to find out later who you’re stuck with.
— Kristen, age 10

WHAT IS THE RIGHT AGE TO GET MARRIED?
Twenty-three is the best age because you know the person FOREVER by then.
— Camille, age 10

HOW CAN A STRANGER TELL IF TWO PEOPLE ARE MARRIED?
You might have to guess, based on whether they seem to be yelling at the same kids.
— Derrick, age 8

WHAT DO YOU THINK YOUR MOM AND DAD HAVE IN COMMON?
Both don’t want any more kids.
— Lori, age 8

WHAT DO MOST PEOPLE DO ON A DATE?
Dates are for having fun, and people should use them to get to know each other. Even boys have something to say if you listen long enough.
— Lynnette, age 8

On the first date, they just tell each other lies and that usually gets them interested enough to go for a second date.
— Martin, age 10

WHAT WOULD YOU DO ON A FIRST DATE THAT WAS TURNING SOUR?
I’d run home and play dead. The next day I would call all the newspapers and make sure they wrote about me in all the dead columns.
— Craig, age 9

WHEN IS IT OKAY TO KISS SOMEONE?
When they’re rich.
— Pam, age 7

The law says you have to be eighteen, so I wouldn’t want to mess with that.
— Curt, age 7

The rule goes like this: If you kiss someone, then you should marry them and have kids with them. It’s the right thing to do.
— Howard, age 8

IS IT BETTER TO BE SINGLE OR MARRIED?
It’s better for girls to be single but not for boys. Boys need someone to clean up after them.
— Anita, age 9


Product Showcase
Paint Stand – 10% Off

Finally, a paint stand for pinewood derby cars that is easy to use, and works on virtually any car! This paint stand by Derby Guys not only holds your car securely, but also:

– Allows you to hold the car in any position while painting.

– Works with axle slots or axle holes, and with any wheelbase.

– Keeps paint out of the axle slots or holes.

– Provides a stable base while your car dries.

Through December 27, 2016, you can get a Paint Stand for 10% off. To take advantage of this limited time offer, add part 5385 to your shopping cart and use coupon code PAINTSTAND during checkout.


Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

Today’s cars are from Tim Norville

I started building fancy cars to show my RAs what could be made besides wedges or blocks, and it snowballed from there. Each year someone gives me a challenge to build something new. This year I built the Munster’s cars which I think turned out okay. This has given my kids ideas of what they can build with a little planning.

Dragula

Koach

Share Your Car With Our Readers

Do you have a car you would like to “show off” to our readers? If so, send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of this car:

For better focus, keep the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to adequately show a feature. Also, only one car per subscriber per year please. Thanks.


Pinewood Derby Memory
A Sad Story?

Okay. I knew that the car we built was fast. I got the track and the timer, right?

We were faster this year than the car we made last year – that won the Pack race, District race, and came in 10th in the Council race.

We were so fast this year that we could have won the Council race last year!

The Den Race: We won our Webelos Den race easily.  We had the fastest time overall in our Den and the other Dens.  This was going to be easy.

The Pack Race: The top 3 of each Den race it off. We won the first 2 rounds. No problem. Third time down, we are ahead. Right before the finish line we go airborne, flip up, and smack the timer pole!  Didn’t even score a time.

We lost – double elimination though.

The car was “runable”, but a piece of wood was breaking near the left rear tire.

We lost again. It was over. Only the top 3 were advanced to the District Race.

My son and I were very disappointed, upset, and confused. There was no reason why the car flipped up on the smoothest, and flattest part of the track. There was no debris. No reason why. It just happened.

But, this is not a sad story. We learned a few lessons from this:

– The fastest car doesn’t always win.
– Sometimes things in life happen for no reason.
– Always expect the unexpected.

Everything was okay the morning after. We will try again next year and keep our fingers crossed.

Barry Goff
Pikeville, KY

Do you Remember?

If you have a pinewood derby story that is funny, unusual, sad, heart-warming, etc., please send it to me in an e-mail. Don’t worry about literary polish. We will edit as needed before publishing. Also, please read our submission policy.

If your story is used, you will receive a $10 coupon in May of 2017.


Q&A

Q: What is the optimum distance between bore ID and the axle OD?

A: I recommend 5 thousandths of clearance between the axle and bore. This is enough for good spinning, but tight enough to minimize wobble. The only kit on the market that has this clearance are Awana kits. On all others, oversized axles have to be used.

Q: How thick is the optimum wheel gap tool?

A: I recommend 30 thousandths. This is the thickness of a typical credit card. But in our tests, any clearance between 25 and 35 thousandths gives the same performance.

Want Answers?

Do you have a pinewood derby-related question? If so, e-mail us your question.

We answer all questions by e-mail, but not every question will appear in the Q&A section of the newsletter.


Back Issues

Are you a new subscriber, or have you missed some of the previous newsletters? Don’t miss out; all of the issues for Volume 5 through Volume 16 are posted on our web site Here.

Issues from Volumes 1 to 4 are available in four formatted documents, ready for immediate download. To find out more, Click Here.


Newsletter Contributions

We welcome your contributions. If you would like to contribute an article, a web site review, a speed tip, or a pinewood derby memory, please e-mail us.

Please read our submission policy.


Subscription Information

The Pinewood Derby Times is a free e-newsletter focused on pinewood derby racing. It is published biweekly from October through March.

If you haven’t already done so, please forward this issue to your pinewood derby friends. But please don’t subscribe your friends. Let them decide for themselves. Thanks.

If this newsletter was forwarded to you, why not subscribe to receive this newsletter. There is no cost, and your e-mail address is safe, as we never sell or share our distribution list.

To subscribe, send a blank e-mail to
mailto:pinewood-derby-times-on@mail-list.com

You will receive a confirmation e-mail. Reply to the confirmation e-mail and you will start receiving the Pinewood Derby Times with the next issue.


Randy Davis, Editor, Pinewood Derby Times
E-Mail: mailto:info@maximum-velocity.com

(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved. Please do not reprint or place this newsletter on your web site without explicit permission. However, if you like this newsletter we grant permission, and encourage you to e-mail it to a friend.

Maximum Velocity disclaims any personal loss or liability caused by utilization of any information presented in this newsletter.

The Pinewood Derby Times is not specific to, and is not affiliated with the Boy Scouts of America, YMCA, Awana, or any other organization.

(R)Maximum Velocity is a registered trademark of Maximum Velocity, Inc.

(R)Pinewood Derby and Regatta are registered trademarks of Boys Scouts of America.

(R)Awana is a trademark of Awana Clubs International.

All other names are trademarks of their respective owners.

Mailing list services are provided by:
www.mail-list.com

Pinewood Derby Memory – The Plymouth Superbird

What started out as a block of wood turned into a huge tradition. When I was in first grade my family decided to have me join Cub Scouts.  I liked it, but I really started to enjoy it when we were able to make Pinewood Derby cars.  The Pinewood Derby is a race of model cars made out of a block of pinewood.  My dad and I decided to create a car that was fast, but also looked good.  My dad and I each drew up our own plans to make a car we both thought would win.  We combined them together to make what we thought, was the perfect plan. Now the real work of building this car began.

We went down to my dad’s shop with the block of wood and our huge plan. First we drew out the plans and decided to make a Plymouth Superbird, which is one of the fastest race cars ever.  Once we started to cut and sand the piece of wood, we could see it begin to come to life. The Metallic Fleck Blue paint transformed this piece of wood, into a model car.  The only thing left was to put in the fine details to make it look like a real racing car.  My dad made sponsor decals and I arranged them on the car.  We painted the number “01” on the side and hood of the car.  The trickiest part was to put the decal windows on the model.  Big decals are harder to place, since they like to roll up.  I was happy this part went well.  Now it was off to the races.

The day of the race finally came.  Once I saw all of the other racers and their cars, I thought I would get last place!  I was one of the first four racers to the starting line.  I didn’t know who would win this round.  To my surprise, I won that round.  It felt so cool and I was so proud my car was so fast.  The next round came and I won that one too.  The races kept going until lunch time and we had to take a break.  It was hard to wait to race my car again.  There was another ten rounds, before I got to race again.  The next two races, I placed second.  When the races were complete, I won second place and was able to get my first trophy.  The best part was being able to go on to the district races.

Two months later I attended the district race at the Mall of America.  There were more than 200 cars racing.  My car was not fast enough to win, but I was proud of how excellent I did.  It was nice to have the pleasure of knowing, I actually made it to the district races.  Good news did come my way when I found out this was a yearly event.  This is how the Pinewood Derby tradition started in our family.  My dad and I still build cars for fun, even though I am too old to race them as a Cub Scout.

Noah Holzer

From Pinewood Derby Times Volume 10, Issue 10
Subscribe to this Free Pinewood Derby E-newsletter
(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved.
Maximum Velocity Pinewood Derby Car Plans and Supplies

Pinewood Derby Times, Volume 16, Issue 5 – November 30, 2016

PINEWOOD DERBY TIMES
Volume 16, Issue 5
November 30, 2016

In this Edition

– Editor’s Notes
– Feature Article – Open Weight Pockets – Do They Affect Speed?
– Humor
– Product Showcase – Holiday Shopping – 10% Off
– Pinewood Derby Memory – Star Ship Tribute
– Pinewood Derby Car Showcase
– Q&A


Editor’s Notes

New Products
Maximum Velocity is introducing two new products just in time for the prime racing season:

15030smallSpecial Tungsten Cylinders – We made a special buy of these cylinders and are offering them to you at a much lower price than our regular cylinders. Each cylinder measures 0.45 inch in diameter and 0.36 inch in length, and weighs 0.56 ounce (7 cylinders equals 3.9 ounces). A cylinder will fit in a 15/32 or 1/2 inch hole. You can find these cylinders Here.

5468smallPre-Cut Bulk MV Car Kits – We made a special run of pre-shaped bulk car kits. The kits are shaped and sanded, and ready for final sanding and painting. Each bulk pack contains three each of four shaped car bodies, wheels, axles, instructions and baggies. You can find them Here.

STEAM/Ford Races
The Ford Motor company has been sponsoring STEAM academies (STEM with Arts) for many years. Recently the STEAM program has been promoting pinewood derby-style races for Girl Scouts. The races are called “Fast Track Races”, and are intended to teach engineering and design. While this program is focused on portions of four states (Texas, New Jersey, Michigan and Florida), pinewood derby racing is a great activity for Girl Scouts troops everywhere.

For more information on the STEAM program and Fast Track Races, Click Here.

MV Basic & Wedge Car Kits
If you are planning a race and are not required to use a specific kit type, our MV Basic or Wedge Car Kit are just what you need. These attractively priced kits are equipped with:

Quality Block – Unlike the blocks provided by some organizations, our blocks are soft, northwestern pine blocks, cut precisely to 7 inches long, 1-3/4 inches wide, and 1-1/4 inches tall. These dimensions, as well as the axle slots accurately duplicate the dimensions of standard pinewood derby blocks from BSA and PineCar.

Simple Axle Preparation – Don’t worry about filing off flaws, or losing hub caps. Our Speed Axles have no burrs or crimp marks, and install without hub caps. With or without polishing, they are ready to go. We supply five, so you have a spare.

Quality Wheels – Forget cheap, out of round wheels. Our MV wheels are top-quality wheels. You will not be disappointed with the quality of these wheels.

So, if your organization does not mandate a particular kit type,
consider our MV Basic Car Kits or MV Wedge Car Kits.

Call for Photos
Help, we are virtually out of photos for the pinewood derby car showcase.  Please send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of car shown at:

Make sure the photo is not blurry. If your photos are blurry, try holding the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to   adequately show a feature. Don’t forget to include your name, the name of the car (if it has one), and a brief write up on any design features, inspiration for the design, and how the car performed at the race. Thanks.

Inventory Clearance Sale
We are clearing inventory on several items including:

– Discount slotted blocks
– Formula One car kit
– Wheel Flares and Paint Stencils
– Raingutter Regatta Decals

We don’t have many left, so don’t delay. You can find these items Here.

Can We Help?

If we can help you in any way with your pinewood derby project, or if you have any feedback regarding this newsletter, please contact E-Mail Us.


Feature Article
Open Weight Pockets – Do They Affect Speed?
By Randy Davis

A common method of adding weight to a car is to drill holes or create pockets in the bottom of the car, and then glue weight into the pockets. Generally, not all of the pocket or hole space is used, so there are open cavities in the bottom of the car.

Some people advocate filling in open cavities, thus creating a smooth surface on the bottom of the car. The belief is that open cavities affect the aerodynamics of the car, leading to slower speeds.

But is this true? If it is true, then certainly the effort required to fill the cavities is justified. On the other hand, filling in cavities creates weighing issues as the weight of the filler must be taken into account. So if open cavities do not affect speed, then the effort is wasted (other than a possible improvement in the looks of the car).

Let’s see if we can answer this question.

Experiment Setup
To test the effect of open cavities on performance, a test car was created with a large amount of open cavities. The car was weighted to 5.035 ounces, and was equipped with the following features:

– Balance point at 11/16 inch in front of the rear axle,
– RS wheels with nickel speed axles, (1)
– Krytox 100 lube
– Alignment set to rail ride
– 32 foot aluminum track

Figure 1  Test Car

Figure 2  Test Car Bottom – Without Tape

A strip of clear packing tape cut to the proper width was placed over the entire bottom of the car, thus creating a smooth bottom with no cavities. The car was then re-weighed – 5.05 ounces.

The Test
Five heats were run with the smooth bottom. The tape was then removed, and tungsten putty (.015 ounces) was added at the center of the car to account for the tape weight. Then five heats were run with the open cavities.

The Results
The runs averaged and the standard deviation calculated:

Smooth Bottom – Average – 2.466 seconds, .0012 standard deviation

Open Cavities – Average – 2.466 seconds, .0013 standard deviation

Conclusion
Obviously, open cavities do not affect performance. My belief is that since the peak speed of a pinewood derby car is less than 20 MPH on a standard track, the aerodynamics of a car are only affected by:

– changes in the frontal cross-section of the car,(2)
– creating a smoother profile, and improving air flow with fenders,(3)
– elimination of sails, streamers or other air catching accessories.

So, unless you are an aesthetic purist, I wouldn’t bother covering open pockets or holes in the bottom of the car.

(1) I chose to use disk wheels instead of full width wheels to
minimize the overall aerodynamic profile of the car, so that if open
pockets did affect speed the effect would tend to be amplified.

(2) Proven in a test done in 2004, which will be revisited in a future
article this season.

(3) Proven in a test done in 2013. Click Here for the article.


Humor

Want To Go Out?
One Saturday, as Mom was finishing the dinner dishes, my father stepped up behind her. “Would you like to go out, girl?” he asked.

Not even turning around, my mother quickly replied, “Oh, yes, I’d love to!”

They had a wonderful evening, and it wasn’t until the end of the evening that Dad finally confessed that his question had actually been directed to the family dog, laying near Mom’s feet on the kitchen floor.


Product Showcase

Holiday Shopping – 10% Off

Here at Maximum Velocity we wish you and your family a great holiday season. To help with gift giving, through December 13, 2016, you can get 10% off your entire order. To take advantage of this limited time offer, please Click Here.


Pinewood Derby Car Showcase

Today’s cars are from Jeff Bartel.

Silver Stealth
This was Nickolas’ second car and his fastest (2nd in the Pack).  It was based on two or three designs he found online and combined.

Scout Spirit
This was Nickolas’ first car as a Webelos.  He wanted to go for scout spirit (which he won) and speed (which didn’t work out quite as well due to some alignment issues). He was proud of using the scroll saw to put his initials into the front of the car.

Space Shuttle

This was Nickolas’ final car. He was done with trying for speed and was focused on the design award, which he won. He carved the shuttle out of two pieces of balsa wood, and the external fuel tank and SRBs were dowels that he sanded down (and added toothpicks to the former and wire nuts as the engines to the latter). The shuttle sits on a skateboard of the original PWD kit.

Share Your Car With Our Readers

Do you have a car you would like to “show off” to our readers? If so, send us a photo of your car along with a description of any special features to:
info@maximum-velocity.com

Please include your full name. If selected, we will include the photo and description in this newsletter.

Photos must be sent by e-mail in JPG format (minimum size of 640×480, maximum size of 1280 x 960). Please shoot photos from the front left of the car, similar to the orientation of this car:

For better focus, keep the camera four or five feet away from the car, and then use the camera’s zoom to fill the frame with the car. Also, use a solid (preferably white) background for the photo.

Send only one photo per car, unless an additional photo is needed to adequately show a feature. Also, only one car per subscriber per year please. Thanks.


Pinewood Derby Memory
Star Ship Tribute

My wife Jennifer accepted the call to become the children’s pastor at a church in Kansas. One of the first things I asked when I got to the church was “What would you most want out of my time here?”

Knowing that I had experience with the pinewood derby, the youth pastor Philip spoke up and said (among other things): “The District Director of Kansas has never lost a Ranger Derby Race in ten years.”

I knew that we could be competitive with the ten-time champ but, I did not make any promises.

About a month later the Ranger Derby building started, While the Royal Rangers made dragsters, speeders, racers and other high performance racing machines, Pastor Philip wanted to make a Starship Enterprise from the movie Star Trek. I told Pastor Philip that his car looked cool and it could also win – if we ran it backwards. So, Pastor Philip began building his car. He was at the primer step, when he had to have tonsillectomy surgery.

During the surgery something happened and Pastor Philip died, leaving his unfinished Ranger Derby car. The Royal Rangers and the youth group were stunned, and wondered how we could show honor to Pastor Philip. We all decided to finish Pastor Philips car and race it in his honor.

The Royal Rangers worked hard on their cars, and on Pastor Philip’s car. They were able to run two test races against the reigning ten-time champ with their own cars. They almost won. But we had one trick up our sleeve. For the state race we had finished Pastor Philip’s car with a fresh paint job. We also ordered new wheels and lube from Maximum Velocity.

Race day arrived! All of our cars passed inspection with flying colors, even Pastor Philip’s with a split nose that went around the start pin. So the race was on, we had two Rangers that got third and fourth in the state, and all that was left was the leader’s class with Pastor Philip’s car. As expected with a split nose the race officials allowed us to put tape across the nose so the car would stay behind the pin on the start gate. The first race we lost by an inch, but the next three we won by a inch or more! We knew all of the times would be close, but would Pastor Philip’s car win?

The District Director explained what had happened to Pastor Philip, and that we finished and raced the car for him. He then said, “First Place, winning by three thousandths of a second: Pastor Philip!!!!”

That Sunday, I presented the car and medal to Pastor Philip’s Mom and Dad. Most everyone was at least a little misty eyed. The Royal Rangers wanted in our own way to give a little honor to Pastor Philip to remember what a good man he was.

Tony Grim
Morrow, Arkansas

Do you Remember?

If you have a pinewood derby story that is funny, unusual, sad, heart-warming, etc., please send it to me in an e-mail. Don’t worry about literary polish. We will edit as needed before publishing. Also, please read our submission policy.

If your story is used, you will receive a $10 coupon in May of 2017.


Q&A

Q: This year, we’ve been trying to utilize more Physics; we’ve heard the competition is going to be tougher this year. Last year we didn’t worry about putting the weight in the rear, aerodynamics, or anything; we just polished the axles and did the work on the wheels and we won. For this year we found out that one of our competition is utilizing aftermarket BSA speed wheels and speed axles, and he’s using a type of “Quick Start” tactic by putting a “V” cut in the front of the car and using the paperclip trick to leverage the top of the starting dowel. Supposedly when the lever is pulled, his car may get a head start to help him along. What do you think about this quick start trick?

A: Don’t worry about this. On modern tracks, the quick start trick has no benefit, and may be detrimental if the paper clip gets bent or does not trip the finish line sensor. For more information, take a look at the article in This Newsletter.

Q: I’ve always been told that graphite breaks down and wears out after about 10 races. Yet, on your website, there was a test run that was done with 20 races and the results seem consistent. What’s the truth behind graphite usage and how soon it wears out before needing to be reapplied?

A: If you do a thorough lube job, then you should get 20 heats. That is why the instructions say to spend the time adding, spinning, adding, spinning, etc.  I recommend five minutes per wheel for this process, always ending with spinning.  What you are doing is building up multiple coatings of graphite on the wheel bore. If you get enough layers, it will last the 20 heats, and you will have a very fast car. If you don’t get enough coatings, then it will wear out prematurely. If you don’t spin after the last addition of graphite, then the first few heats will be slower as the last added graphite must be worked in.

Want Answers?

Do you have a pinewood derby-related question? If so, e-mail us your question.

We answer all questions by e-mail, but not every question will appear in the Q&A section of the newsletter.


Back Issues

Are you a new subscriber, or have you missed some of the previous newsletters? Don’t miss out; all of the issues for Volume 5 through Volume 16 are posted on our web site Here.

Issues from Volumes 1 to 4 are available in four formatted documents, ready for immediate download. To find out more, Click Here.


Newsletter Contributions

We welcome your contributions. If you would like to contribute an article, a web site review, a speed tip, or a pinewood derby memory, please e-mail us.

Please read our submission policy.


Subscription Information

The Pinewood Derby Times is a free e-newsletter focused on pinewood derby racing. It is published biweekly from October through March.

If you haven’t already done so, please forward this issue to your pinewood derby friends. But please don’t subscribe your friends. Let them decide for themselves. Thanks.

If this newsletter was forwarded to you, why not subscribe to receive this newsletter. There is no cost, and your e-mail address is safe, as we never sell or share our distribution list.

To subscribe, send a blank e-mail to
mailto:pinewood-derby-times-on@mail-list.com

You will receive a confirmation e-mail. Reply to the confirmation e-mail and you will start receiving the Pinewood Derby Times with the next issue.


Randy Davis, Editor, Pinewood Derby Times
E-Mail: mailto:info@maximum-velocity.com

(C)2016, Maximum Velocity, Inc. All rights reserved. Please do not reprint or place this newsletter on your web site without explicit permission. However, if you like this newsletter we grant permission, and encourage you to e-mail it to a friend.

Maximum Velocity disclaims any personal loss or liability caused by utilization of any information presented in this newsletter.

The Pinewood Derby Times is not specific to, and is not affiliated with the Boy Scouts of America, YMCA, Awana, or any other organization.

(R)Maximum Velocity is a registered trademark of Maximum Velocity, Inc.

(R)Pinewood Derby and Regatta are registered trademarks of Boys Scouts of America.

(R)Awana is a trademark of Awana Clubs International.

All other names are trademarks of their respective owners.

Mailing list services are provided by:
www.mail-list.com